Stewed compost bottle funk makes a bold fruit statement moments later, a grating lanolin-greased mélange of herby hedge, cat’s-tongue soothing with a ripeness pulling the cherry toward maraschino. Dark ruby with a fair bit of ambering at the edge, it’s a swill smelling both vibrant and edgy while settling in to aged dessert. A *medium* vintage I believe–not horrible but decent–so figured this little lady might be ripe for some kissing. A satellite on the eve of its 9th birthday from a year where clay ruled ought to be in the early stages of ideal.
Lush, sweet attack drops pithy cherry and pomegranate skin all over any syrupy incantations, quickly opening garish crevasses where acidic revenge flows freely. The fruit is not bright or cherubic, but rather a tinkling of berry against a brash backdrop of green-vegetal and teeth-wiping grittiness. It’s definitely going the place Merlot goes, but on careful Lussac terms orchestrated by tannin and grip. Meager of finish, the sugar desperately holding on in a battle it will surely LOSE to the onslaught of structure shortly.
Anyone who follows me faithfully and understands my palate knows I’m loving this wine. Anyone here for the bells & whistles will conclude it terrible. You know who you are.
2012 CHATEAU BONNIN PICHON Lussac St-Emilion ME/CF/Cab 80/10/10 Bordeaux France 13.5