I figured I should say something about this wine–since I’ve been drinking so much of it of late. I drink a lot of bubbles, but–other than my stories–don’t generally *review* it or blog about it unless they are samples, and I don’t get too many Champagne or methode CA sparkler samples: mostly pet-nats and piquettes and ‘sparkling whites’ from small producers, along with the occasional prosecco promo pitch from the Italians. But I opened one of these on a whim a few weeks ago at a wine-bar with a rather boring re-wine list but an above-average Champagne selection, was blown away from the first pour, and have probably dranken 5 or 6 bottles in the past month. So, I guess it’s time to give them a little plug. It is basically my new *house bubbles*.
Perfect pale onion skin headed cautiously toward amber. Good effervescence–not too much: to startle the palate and diffuse fruit–and not too little: to flab things up. The peppery nature of bubbles has to be carefully regulated. Creamy-bright in the nose, it actually smells a LOT like quality Provence rosé–maybe this is why I like it so much! But naturally, there’s a buttery almond and wet straw nuance–the fruit a soggy pear with dull apricot and cantaloupe fragments. It’s absolutely PERFECT. These were my exact words 10 seconds into my first bottle, “This is absolutely perfect.” I don’t need to inform loyal readers this is a word I do NOT throw around casually.
Tasting it is where the ridiculous dance between body and bubbles shows the most finesse. The gentle mousse carefully uplifts and enhances all aspects of the fruit: part of it bitter brilliance, part of it watery dessert. Everything lingers at that stall-out eternity where your head goes numb and your heart stutters. Playful and delicious, elegant and refined: one of those wines encapsulating the entire spectrum of conflicting descriptors. For the price, I DARE you to find a suitable big-house parry.
NV CHAMPAGNE DEUTZ Rosé France 12.0
Stephen McConnell 