Four-In-Hand

Sunday night quick-hits of some randoms last couple days… Last night’s Stolpman SO FRESH was gonna go in this grouping but it was just too good and I scribbled too much.

Opened the Il Pignetto Bardolino with some wine friends as we had two bottles of not-terribly-good (being nice here) Cabs on the table and decided to blow their minds. Bardolino always works perfectly in such circumstances. Light, bright and lovely–without the carbonic usually associated with such things–a SOLID Corvina just amazing to drink.

Happened upon a case of the Ch Candale a couple months back and swooped it up… Been drinking the crap outa them and giving them away, as they are drinking perfectly and pushing the limits of age. I think I have six left, had one corked so far, and THIS one feels quite tired. Raisin-y in the glass, fruit a maraschino syrup, not pruney, but just feeling fatigued. FIFTEEN POINT MF OH *might* be the culprit here… DRINK UP!

Ordered the Sherrer off a resty list peppered with nice things, but this jumped out. Probably have never ordered a Zin before, but knew this would be restrained. Sure enough, no JAM & VODKA here: first sniffs had a citrusy sort of armpit thing covering the black cherry and briary berry. But all in small doses. Alexander Valley structure blew through with plenty of acid and easy tannin, everything dialed-back and un-slutty. Guessed it low-14’s, but the spot of heat in the finish hinted otherwise.

My love for Purisima Mt. is easily as deep as my criticism of Ballard Cyn., which just goes to show you things are not always black & white. Beckmen makes a solid wine with fabulous aging potential, and this 7YO–while mellow and smooooth–is in a great place to hold for another decade. Staining garnet and a nose all brambly spice and reduction, absolute perfection on the palate with concentrated blackberry, gobs of spice and peppery tannin to boot. Gorgeous stuff: RIPE but well-managed.

2019 IL PIGNETTO Corvina/Rondinella Bardolino DOC Veneto Italy 12.5
2003 CHATEAU DE CANDALE ME/CF 80/20 St. Emilion Grand Cru Bordeaux France 15.0
2014 SHERRER Zin Sherrer Vyd Alexander Valley Sonoma 14.8
2014 BECKMEN SY Purisima Mt. Vyd. Ballard Cyn. Santa Ynez Valley 15.0

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