Decided to dig into the cheap 18’s–sorry, I just couldn’t drink that Roussillion–and I’ll tell you AGAIN: you need to be buying as much 2018 as you can find, as the quality just SHINES way down into the bargain-basement plonk. Beautiful clear ruby with a ruddy rim, an absolute GORGEOUS nose of barnyard and petrichor and tilled earth mingling with brushy briar and old-world classicism while managing a depth of ripe cherry, bright blackberry and peach going where almond butter and black walnut fear to tread. And unlike many highly-scored VINTAGES OF THE DECADE, this doesn’t smack *California* in your face. Sure: there’s gorgeous ripeness and a ridiculous depth of fruit–and the ABV is a bit elevated–but so much aggressive Bordeaux spirit exists.
For a vaguely-labeled $25 grand vin looking–from all accounts–like a consortium-bottling, the mouth-feel is just stunning. Savory aspects from the bouquet hit the entry hard, with acid and stupendous structure sandwiching lofty fruit discoveries in between. Gritty and harsh, the bitter angst of the region–and the almost-half Cabernet component–cascades gravely hate onto your tongue in a play to dissuade you from fruit-realization. It doesn’t work. The supple blackberry and plum writhes with glorious funk and briar, never getting shoved out of the tumultuous mix. Vegetal nuances are kept in check but very obvious: white pepper and bloody game purposefully point this wine through the fog of structure toward a final assessment of: STUPIDLY young to drink: barely enjoyable and even moderately accessible but COMPLETELY rationalizable. Probably one of the *most serious* cheap 18’s I’ve opened but definitely the most stunning. Will last 20 years.
2018 VIGNERONS D’UNI MEDOC ‘Traditions Des Colombiers’ ME/Cab 60/40 Medoc AOC Bordeaux France 14.5