The first pour tells you this is not Sangio–or one of their 90/10 Colorino blends. Black as night, thick and staining, this bottling is 50% the latter. And the nose also tells a rich story. Smelling quite *Californian*, it is RIPE and packed with concentrated berry. Concentratedly macerated, a generous oak programme, and the 4 years it spends at the winery all obvious in bouquet and palate, as it is a stunningly BIG wine–drinking more like a hi-dollar Napa Cabernet or Super-Tuscan than a family-production, organic IGT. The fruit in the nose a massive black cherry, grainy with briar and soil, but heady in perfume, alcohol and velvety rich patina. While they do not call this their flagship wine, it IS their most-expensive–and there’s only 4 barrels. And the attention to detail in producing a luxury red able to to play on a New-World-marketing field fairly explodes out of this thing. It is a BIG, stunning, beautiful wine, but the details will be in the tasting.
Far more restrained on the palate than the nose might suggest. I was concerned the heady floral and ridiculous opulence of fruit would completely sell out its spirit in the mouth with cloying chubbiness. The richness of entry only allows mind-bending euphoria for a few taut moments, before a crushed-Vit-C and green astringency barges in. Everything about this wine screams LUXURY, but it doesn’t get all soft and cushy on you. The tobacco, earth and wood of the nose come back to soothe the wounds of the acid mid-palate, re-invigorating the unctuous blackberry, pomegranate and hazelnut, before it thins out again to absolute purity in stupendous tannins and equally-raspy fruit.
This is a wine 3 paragraphs do not do justice to. Even now–two hours in–I am torn to shred these scribbles and write a fresh one. Complexity is a pre-schooler with this one, a wine so generous, so overwhelmingly good, so stupidly tight and young, but still dripping gold-plated decadence on everything. A sickeningly-good wine–overwhelming, actually–its only flaw will be detractors calling it *Californian*. That vein of angry acid at the core might beg to differ. Buy as much of this as you can afford. It has 2 decades to go, EASY.
2015 POGGIO LA NOCE ‘Paonazzo’ Sangiovese/Colorino 50/50 Toscana IGT Italy 14.0