Oh the glories of Bardolino! A perfect grab from the cellar to cap the week. So comforting, so generous in its simplicity, so rewarding in its complexity. Beautiful smoky fruit fresh and vibrant: enraged with acid; curls of green vegetal and pretty floral tying nectar to structure. A cat’s-tongue rasp smoothing down sweet plum and cherry.
This is Sommacampagna–the home of clay and Veneto Merlot and my favorite Cru of the Bardolinos–and the complexity these wines show is mind-boggling. Bardolino DOC is half the price of Cru-Beaujolais and one-third of Chinon and delivers a like-minded juxtaposition of textures and fruit: fresh and yummy to enjoy–but packing bitter seriousness to challenge and engage. It’s a whole new way to look at Corvina, and this is a THINKING-PERSON’S wine from where the Alps meet the Mediterranean.
2020 MONTE DEL FRA Corvina/Rondinella 90/10 Sommacampagna Bardolino DOC Veneto Italy 12.5
Stephen McConnell 