Haven’t had an Oregon for a while, and wanted something fairly ripe and robust tonight and this label never disappoints in that arena. Dark, nearly impenetrable ruby with a rosy rim, fat fruit introduces itself in the nose without apology, warm woody briar trimmed in toasty syrup, so rich an almost cardboard-y oxidation feels nigh. Everything is concentrated black cherry sweetness. Wait: Is this California???

Staining and rich on the tongue, more succulent cherry not-quite thick enough for liqueur, but headed down maraschino and amaretto trails faster than you can keep up. If you drink hi-dollar bling-juice from the top names in SLH and RRV, this is your wine. If you want your Pinot to be a MEAL, check this stuff out. You won’t be able to keep the fruit-flies out of it (two so far tonight and it’s not even summer). Straight luxury top-to-bottom–though not particularly complex–a significant seam of structure balances it to an *extent*, finally culminating in fairly aggressive tannin and considerable heat.

2018 HUETT CELLARS Pinot Noir Old Wagon Rd Vyd Yamhill-Carlton Oregon 13.9

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