The reigning region of GSM in California is a myriad of choices, with nearly every producer in the West-Side Districts pumping out practically endless variations of blend and source. And while on the surface–to casual consumers unwilling to concentrate–these can often seem blended to rich smoothness at the expense of varietal character, occasionally one rises to near-classic definition, obviously showcasing the headliner, but fortified with subtle injections of accompanying varieties. Here’s one doing just that.
Rich staining ruby, the bluish glow tempered with Grenache’s amber hint. Thick and delicious in the nose, dark-cherry ripeness chubby and sweet to dessert-like proportions. Careful barnyard funk and cinnamon earth pin nutmeg and coriander to slight vegetal pepper and VA, a black-tar hint lurking below clean, direct solidarity of fruit concentration. Slight rust mineral wafts over the top of each draw, lifting the package out of sullen territory often ruled by Paso flab.
A beautiful wine to smell, and entry over the tongue confirms additional typicity. Peppermint plucks at acidic strings, their vibration diluting the heavy fruit in ethereal mist, lightening the mouth-feel with complex sparkle. The middle is an invigorating thin-ness, giving the palate an opportunity to gather opinions toward pepper and spice and impending structure. The Syrah gorgeously shining on this; the Mourvedre a welcome meaty churn; the Grenache a hearty glow. Peppery and sharp into mellow tannin, cool and level-headed throughout, the heat of probably 15+ never conflicting. Way too beautiful at age 2, with an easy decade of balance to go.
2019 DUBOST ‘Auguste’ GSM 10/20/70 Adelaida Dist. Paso Robles 15.5
Stephen McConnell 