This one’s getting decidedly more deeply-fruited, old-world, and funky with age. In a really good way. Still opaque, staining and black-red, with the slightest hint of pink at the rim. Warm black cherry, rich stock and mushroom umami in the nose, barely-noticeable points of briar and barnyard poking up through the savory berry. Not a particularly effusive bouquet, just calm, focused and showing signs of mature polish.
On the palate, all signs of bright, fresh fruit have also taken a step into adult-hood. Chunky and thick, it is all dark, smoky pie-cherry, stewed with tar and leather, pipe tobacco and dank spice. Shockingly acidic as it arches across the tongue, monster tannins meeting bloody citrus for the take-away, coated in slightly-porty concentration.
This is an unabashed, unapologetic red wine showing more like aged Northern Rhone than Alto-Adige. The grip and grasp of fruit is tinctured nicely in briar and bite, yet with indications suggesting it will never out-live the structure. But then: there’s that black maceration coating the foundation, and it’s anyone’s guess where it will be in a decade. I think the balance exists to render it basically age-less with careful storage. It’s still available on the website, so you make the call.
2016 WEST OF TEMPERANCE Teroldego Heringer Vyd Clarksburg California 13.6
Stephen McConnell 