Not sure I’ve ever had a Malbec from Italy before–not really remembering any. This rich, thick IGT lists it as first ingredient, and it’s pretty obvious in smell and taste. But forget that flabby stuff from South America or rough, rustic Cahors: this is a structured, Bordeaux-esque beauty–and the toasty Bec just adds to the charm. A big wine, modern and clean, plentiful oak polish and ready to enjoy. Decanted a bit… and the expression of *Italy* grows with air.
Dark blackish ruby, staining the glass a deep shade of purple. Ripe, quite *California* nose of rich cherry and blackberry preserves, bolstered with solid, earthy texture and gorgeous oak. Spicy and decadent, full roundness bridled back with slight cellar-funk and stony compost. Blind, this could easily be a top Sonoma cab/merlot or upper-tier Napa proprietary blend. A wine I could smell all night long.
It fills the mouth calmly and assuredly, not pumping chubby forwardness or acute adolescence into receptors, rather relying on considerate balance and all-over restraint to get its point across. And what a glorious point it makes: elegantly proffering everything the nose expressed into items taste-buds can quantify with relish. The fruit–while ridiculously ripe–is toned with steely grandeur and grapefruit minerality. Greenbriar and thorny bramble drip vibrant sap around the edges, the core driven by tannic rigidity morphing from tight pomegranate and Granny Smith acidity. The pith at the heart of the wine dries the mouth, edging the lush berry into continuous spotlight. NOWHERE does the fruit take a break, its sweetness and aplomb going tête-à-tête with brash notations of beautiful age-ability from powerful entry through unforgettable finish. This is a REALLY nice super-Tuscan. Buy a case and drink one every-other year.
2017 TENUTA SETTE CIELI ‘Indaco’ Bec/Cab/ME 33/33/33 IGT Toscano 14.5
Stephen McConnell 