Classic medium garnet transparency–a refreshing turn from a LOT of Paso Grenaches: extracted to Syrah-like proportions of density. Meaty, composty nose, round with bruised fruit playing flacidly down along vegetal regions of expression: so much so, it approaches pruney, a toasty dullness lacking fresh berry vigor in fruit and spirit. Vague under the wet newsprint and fall leaf-pile, ripe pear and rhubarb about as descriptive as one can manage.

Far more clean and direct in the mouth, it gains many points on the palate which were not obvious from bouquet. More meatiness–with plenty of background acidity–a sharp cherry-infused alcoholic tincture controlling the entry and middle, a Sweet-Tart & Dr. Pepper cocktail chubbily inviting moderate sturcture to the heat-party. Peppery burn both dulls and sharpens the black berry, creating grainy chewiness where awkwardly undeserving and the extremes presented are starkly polar–though not un-enjoyable. Dry tannin controls the finish: a woodsy acerola rasp dusted potently with crystaline fruit concentrate.

There are Grenache qualities apparent throughout and this is sure to be a crowd-pleasing bottle: checking all the boxes of tasting-room presentation and club-sign-up appeal, it’s just a bit dis-jointed for me.

2017 DUBOST Grenache Adelaida District Paso Robles 15.5

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