Pure Syrah

Checking in with an old friend again: LIDO in Shell Beach has a bunch of these on the list and they are just no-brainers for the price and stellar delivery. Considerable bottle-funk on first pour, a gorgeous sultry aged-Rhone affair still bristling with fruit. Vegetal and sharp, the rich berry distilled down into layers of tertiary covering dense candy neither too-Maraschino or too-cough syrup, but hinting deliciously at both–WITHOUT a speck of prune. Dark golden brick with a diesel-orange rim, it shook off the pent-up compost with relative ease, blossoming across several hours.

In the mouth, ALL the reasons we drink Syrah slap you in the face. And Syrah made in a way to withstand the test of time is truly an EVENT in the glass. Dark, spicy cherry invades the tongue, coating all with peppery goodness and the sharp pang of still-vibrant acid. Alcoholic tinctures of cinnamon and nutmeg roil the middle with dessert-like substance, grainy briar muddling blood-orange and grapefruit into dry etchings of bas-relief supporting the blackberry anchor. Tannins–of they exist–are merely a wondrous bite slowly grinding and smoothing the velvety finish.

This guy has the resume for stellar wines and his Arcadian label displays EVERYTHING the Central Coast can do in the right hands. Have you had some of his 10 or 15 year-old Chardonnays??? THAT is a treat. The Pinot also shows his careful hand in the cellar, but I keep coming back to the Syrah. Quite easy to find, though rather under-the-radar of today’s flashy marketing bling, Jeb Dunnuck 96-pt darling children and #winebro allocation goals. FIND THEM. Get them as OLD as you can.

2006 ARCADIAN Syrah Purisima Vyd Santa Ynez Valley Santa Barbara Co. 14.7


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