Harmony at Night

I remember buying this wine, but I’m not sure WHEN. And, it’s NV–and unlike most of the NV wines I put in the cellar–I failed to write the purchase date on it. I was at the TR, and strongly dis-liked anything being poured except this one–and I bought a couple. When queried about the lack of vintage, I remember them being quite vague about how old the blend was and why exactly it carried the NV classification. But, from recollection of who I was WITH at the time–ahem–it was at least 10 years ago. I’m going to say this bottle is from the mid-to-late 2000’s. These people share a property line with Justin, and from both style and marketing: belong firmly in the Steve Glossner/John Munch school of Paso-thought. From that, you can fairly well *place* how the wine was made and how it will present itself.

Rich ruddy garnet in the glass, bright golden-brick throughout with moderate sediment. Multi-vitamin yeasty derivatives on the nose–mostly from the B-vitamin family–alongside quite gorgeous polished fruit with complex tertiary layers. Deeply Maraschino, the dark cherry has a dull vegetal membrane coating it: something which quite elevates the bouquet into almost-Pinot regions of velvety funk, while still firmly pulling at silky Bordeaux bikini-strings perched in the crease of fleshy curves. It’s leathery–and wafts of Borkum Riff introduce plentiful cinnamon and allspice in a not-particularly *exuberant* nose, but one typicitous of the warmth and alcohol we associate with Paso Robles.

Sharp and stinging on the palate, the fruit well-framed in acid and peppery heat. The berry and cherry is a thick, robust affair, bringing German chocolate cake and pecan pie into memory: the nutty, bitter grate vibrant and seemingly ageless against the well-polished luxury of fruit. This thing HAS to be 15-oh, but it carries the weight well across its broad, postured frame. The middle explodes into thick, chewy blackberry: ripe and sweet and churning with briary pith. Blockbuster tannin pierces the dessert, showing a balance of fruit and structure quite massive, but working well together and–honestly–with MANY years to go. The fruit shows NO fade, and the pitchy bulk of it all is charmingly balanced. I’m extremely happy with how this wine shows and glad I bought it. I can remember several upturned brows at the time: “Why you buying THAT one???” Well, turns out I know best.

NV CARMODY MCKNIGHT Petit Verdot Paso Robles 14.9


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