A most effusive candied fruit escapes from the bottle on pffft–almost Juicy Fruit gum in potency–and had me worried for a minute, although it IS an ‘Extra Brut’. In the glass, it does not smell that way, nor anywhere on the palate: calming my fears. Pale canary with considerable trails after initial foam, it gently releases its sparkle for considerable time. Beautifully austere in the nose, with sly nods to Thompson Seedless, kiwi and apricot in a quite un-yeasty bouquet simply complex and pure.
The spritz crossing the tongue causes new foaminess, driving shards of acid-tinged fruit into every receptor. Round and powerful in the mouth, it flexes lithe melon muscle across full-bodied curves. The apple and stone-fruit is well-integrated into savory cellar-floor texture and the rigid sting of bubbles.
*Extra Brut* is something which basically doesn’t exist in the United States: I can’t think of a single California sparkling wine I have ever seen labeled as such, and even with Champagne is rare, but it is a category more should address, and from memory: I believe tops out where *Brut* begins at 7g/l? The dryness will dissuade regular Prosecco fans from enjoyment, but ‘Natural’ proponents or those who seek out the lower climes of ‘Brut’ will readily appreciate this wine. Sharp and driving, while demonstrating methodically-placed concentrations of fresh fruit in a bone-dry arena, it presents itself in a way demanding careful consideration alongside top methode entries.
NV PERLAGE ‘Genesis’ Glera Extra Brut Organic Prosecco Superiore DOCG Asolo Italy 4g/l 11.5
Stephen McConnell 