This wine is so *clean*. I’m in a bit of a quandary about it. Bright canary in the glass, greenish and clear. A mocha, slightly toasted nose pulls tropical and slightly floral into focus, but otherwise calm and steady. Obviously I wouldn’t state I needed ‘oak & butter’ in my chards, but this thing contributes neither of those, while also not ringing and truly ‘Chablis’ bells. It’s a great white wine, but could be a well-made Pinot Grigio or light Rhone blend. It just doesn’t feel very Chardy. I can be on board with this lack of California typicity, and tasting it will decide.
Again, clean and bright. A nascent set of profiles present themselves, none overwhelmingly *Chardonnay*. At 52°, crisp and biting–acid popping up in expected places–a green-apple and almost strawberry-ish note to the fruit. The only nod to the variety is a slight sweetness, bringing welcome body to the mouthfeel. Hints of latex cloud the late-middle and finish, a raspy mineral ire filling the latter. Relatively un-fruited, a body light and thin, vegetal nil, just everywhere you look you see clean, crisp “white wine”. Checking now the ABV, I’m wondering how you get something this ripe without pulling anything DEFINITIVELY Chardonnay into the arena. A light sipper–neither egregious or compelling–perhaps the world’s most perfect BTG white. I shudder to think what this would taste like at normal American white wine temperatures–even now at 60° only vague nods to the beauty of this variety appear, no roundness or characteristic fleshiness exudes. I think age could help this. There are elements of greatness lurking, but currently you are left wanting. This might just be the perfect 10-year Chardonnay.
2020 BARRA Chardonnay ‘Estate’ Mendocino 14.0
Stephen McConnell 