Massive sweaty, poopy bottle-funk on first pour, a delicious nod to old Italian but blowing off into bright Jolly Rancher watermelon hard candy tinged with green tips of vegetal. At the core, dark berry sulks from a glass headed far more garnet than ruby.

Still and calm in the mouth, dirty Pepsi muddiness controlling acidic strawberry and apricot. Citrus wash eases light tannin into perspective, the whole package yummy and light, concentrated in all the right places but frivolous in theory. Light, bright and beautifully-fruited, the Alpine nature of this Northern Italian beauty weighs in with lusty greenery and raspy body. A rather nice wine.

2014 TERRA DI GIOJA Marzemino Trentino DOC Italy 12.5

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