One of the private tastings Angelo Peretti set up for me during a recent visit to Lake Garda: an old-school classic Bardolino producer and agritourism destination churning out lots of regionally-specific wines and olive oils with tastings deep into old library stuff and fresh, bright versions. Here we have their Bardolino Classico, a typical young modeling of Corvina and Rondinella. Light garnet in the glass, a slightly-vegetal nose positively glowing with Pinot-esque barnyard and fruit. Cherry, plum and bruised peach control the nose, somewhat awash in funky earth notes and mineral undertones.
Sublime on the palate, old varnish, pear and nectarine bring spicy berry to the forefront, a crisp, clean middle awash in acidic bristle. Soft tannins lay smoothly along the finish, allowing highlights of freshness to shine without overt structure muddling things. Fruity high notes play along definite floral lines, and classic Northern Italian injects plentiful greenery. So delicious, so refreshing and light, though ripeness is a contender and the wine is NOT to be pushed off as un-serious plonk. The amount of magic these little wines pull off is astounding, and I wish more Americans could experience their perfection in balance and easy-going complexity. Candied and delightfully sweet-feeling–almost frivolous in nature–the smoky, Jolly Rancher nose follows through on attack before the pure *winey-ness* of body confirms seriousness. So pretty, and so delicious. Find it if you can!
2019 COSTADORO Classico Superiore Bardolino DOCG Veneto Italy 14.0
Stephen McConnell 