This is a fun little wine. I love Carpineto, and honestly did not realize this wine existed–bought off a resty list for less than 30 bucks–so do the math on that. Didn’t really know what to expect: mostly something cheap and cloying, and it turned out to be neither. Like its big yellow brother we all love, it greets the palate with shockingly un-approachable structure from the get-go. Carpineto is one of thost things you see on wine-lists FARRRRR to young to be truly enjoyed, alot like Crognolo. Beautiful rich ruby in the glass, a nose evoking solid Italian nuance: slight barnyard and earthy funk, but combined with searing rigidity of structure. So much for assumptions of a cheap screw-top with no punt!
Simple and direct in the mouth, generous acidity and mineralific fruit defy the ridiculous price-point. Smooth maraschino cherry translates perfectly across the palate, a burnt-bitter raspiness of tar and licorice expanding things. Surprisingly ageable in texture–something I’m sure the house does NOT expect to happen: but there it is. Generous air and decanting reveal a brooding red wine quite above expectations, and if you see it on a list, do not be embarrassed to order such a cheapie. It’s gorgeous wine: serviceable in all areas and quite the bargain.
2019 CARPINETO ‘Dogajolo’ Rosso “Sangio & Cabernet & other things” IGT Toscano 13.0
Stephen McConnell 