Nothing like a big, blustery Chard to wake you up after a long stretch of far lighter whites and Chablis. The price-point on this one doesn’t dictate it should be a sophisticated, acidic wonder, and the nose comes off big and rich, packed with butternut squash, roux and toasty almond paste. Certain dark tropical fruitiness resides as well: mango and papaya–drippingly ripe–caught in a sultry, humidity-ridden heatwave of rich glory. Chilling it well deadens these nuances, presenting a considerably sharper, smoky lean-ness, so pick your serving temp accordingly.

Tasting it gives a nutty, mineralific wonder, steely and ripe, gobs of gooey vegetal propping up corners where acidity dawdles. The raspiness of texture mixes well with the chunkiness of pure Chardonnay splendor, and the finish a clean, toasty-barrel swoosh of complexity. These wines present a value very hard to argue with, and sell out almost instantly. I love second labels!

2020 NSO by DUSTY NABOR Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara Co. 14.0

www.nsowines.com/