This is an interesting wine–and not an un-compelling one–despite its packaging. Besides, it has a cat on the label, and depite my oft-cited rule about dogs on labels, I’m OK with cats–and just about any other animal besides dogs. Opening a crown-cap without phfffst is a welcome anti-expectancy, as we are fairly well conditioned to contents under such closures. Dark staining blue-purple, a gloriously rosy nose of concentrated berry and earthy mire. Balsamic and weedy briar control basal notes in the bouquet, and it feels ripe and thick. Not necessarily in a Paso *ripe & thick* way–more a Mendo or Sonoma Coast *ripe & thick* version. Pretty vine and flora compel the fruit, and the whole thing feels a lot more seriouser than the bottle would suggest.

Tasting it introduces FAR more grit and grime and grainy fruit than this punt-less fattie would profess. Brilliantly delicious, insired with plentiful acid and tangy dessert, the flush, tight cherry cascading raspberry and black walnut sweet cigar across the palate. The bitter clamor of the finish is music to any winelover’s ear, and while tannins are soft, this thing never goes slutty anywhere throughout. I can’t hate this wine–not that I intended to, but there were asterisks. This is a work-horse fuckin wine: I DARE you to find something it wouldn’t crush with. And believe-it-or-not: it’s gluten free.

2019 GIA COPPOLA Red Wine Graciano/GR/PS 50/25/25 California 14.5

www.thefamilycoppola.com/