Digging into some of these older vintages, and after last night’s Merlot, I gotta say this one feels a bit tired. Oh it’s beautiful–don’t get me wrong–just not *quite* as glowing in texture. An inexpensive blend of three regions, probably not designed for this kind of age, but still… Dark ruby maroon with considerable brick, a vague nose of chubby tertiary spice and not much else. Fruit lays deep in muddled cherry tones, a funky vegetal lightening the feel.
In the mouth: a sullied, moderate drop, the black cherry and deep berry modified with age into calm, rather un-vigorous aplomb. Gorgeously balanced, but that balance is keen on fruit buried behind polish where tannin is barely-existent and everything screams: DRINK ME. Boring at worst, lackadaisical at best, it is smooth and wonderful but lacking enthusiasm. The finish tells of a fruit-quotient at near-or-past-perfect ratio. An easy-to-drink cellar warrior.
2009 MARTIN RAY ‘Cuvee’ Cabernet Sauvignon Napa/Mendo/Sonoma 50/30/20 California 14.4
Stephen McConnell 