California or Bust

Here’s a fun wine. Garish label notwithstanding, I knew these guys when they were in Paso and they have since moved production–and sourcing–into a wider area: it’s *California* now but the theme in the bottle has not changed. It’s still a beautiful, inexpensive bottle of Zin, staying true to California instincts.

Clear medium ruby in the glass with a razor’s rim of clear. A perfunctory nose of rich fruit, headed with gobs of smoky briar and deep asphalt along bright vegetal lines. Rich and rewarding in bouquet, the cherry a black, bright influence but grainy and effusive in texture.

Tasting it fills the mouth with dirty nuance at once polar to most of California Zin and again sidling comfortably alongside classic lines. It’s deep and rich and ripe, but never crosses over into the glowing sluttiness often shown in Zin-dominated blends of such mettle. Dry and aching on the palate, the plumminess of the variety causing serious glance while never pushing things beyond geeky comfortable. Blackberry preserves continue the mainstay but spicy greenery prevail throughout. No tannin to speak of, just wonderful, sweet finish.

2019 PAYDIRT ‘Going For Broke’ Zin/Primitivo/PS/SY/GR/MV/Cab 70/16/6/2/2/2/2 California 14.8

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