This is some dirty dirty dirty-ass eucalyptus shit, man. Holy wow. I love eucalyptus, but this pushes my comfort level a bit, gotta say. Muddy peat and eucalyptus is pretty much the entire nose. And plenty of air doesn’t do much to alleviate it. Gradually, thick leather and salted licorice take form. It’s purple, too–not showing any of that girly-man Pinot-esque garnet Santa Barbara digs.

The mouth-feel takes things far upward of that, though, embracing brash and spicy, dry and visceral: a chalky angst punctuated with black pepper and sharp currant. Actually rather light–in concentration-terms–the fruit ethereal and biting, pinging with bitter beauty, and… a bit of eucalyptus. The cherry runs apricot and sour-pie, walnut-skin late-middle introducing the tannin.

This is a delicious bottle of wine, but I feel not for everyone. Strangely nuanced and pointed with sharp flavours, ripe to a certain extent while green and garish in others. I’ve always had some asterisks associated with Australian Grenache and Mourvedre, and this one continues those themes. At least it’s not burnt and toasty like some others–nowhere even CLOSE. It’s bright and charming, though herbaceous throughout, raising WC and pigeage questions.

2017 D’ARENBERG ‘d’Arry’s Original’ GR/SY McLaren Vale South Australia 14.5

www.darenberg.com.au/