The distinct spiny-vegetal comes out of the glass, a worn orange-peel sort of piquant floral flush with apricot and strawberry. Transparent ruddy-ruby with clear garnet at the rim. Drrrrrty and gritty while flush with glowing fruit, these Corvinas have all your Gamay, Mencia, and Cab-franc dreams packed inside. Fun winery too: no one spoke English, and the proprietor had bottles to share back into the 80’s–along with distinct bubbles and savory dessert offerings. Hundred-year-old olive groves and a beautiful agri-tourism AirBnB complex complete the ranch.
Drinking this 3YO shows the potential of this grape–in its un-adulterated form–for pure, fresh enjoyment at early-peak. The peat of the nose translates smoothly to a smoky bristle on the tongue, acidity rash and rife, making the deep berry positively tingle. More bright strawberry with watermelon and peach highlights make for a wine astonishingly deep and brooding while lightly elegant. Mineral burns deep, granting steely angst against the palate. Tannins perfectly integrated in a forever finish. A stunning wine we NEED to get more versions of in the US.
2019 AZIENDA AGRICOLA COSTADORO ‘Classico’ Corvina Rondinella Molinara Bardolino DOC Veneto Italy 13.2
Stephen McConnell 