Shok to the System

These wines are becoming predictable–as all labels should be–as something completely interesting and exciting. The theme is always green and vibrant, tip-toeing at the edges of *natural*, but packed with thin awesomeness and Burgundian splendor. One of the lightest Pinots I’ve had in a glass in some time–totally transparent with the garnet browning around the edge–and some sediment here at 6. The nose is all shy cherry, a warm, savory dirty-baby-diaper funk flowing freely along leathery, spicy tones. Muddy earth transforms the ripe berry into tertiary arenas, but nowhere are signs of significant age–or tiredness.

In the mouth, a clean, dry, fruitiness, plumped up with gobs of cherry with a bite owing to rash, vibrant acid and salty vegetal. The match-head and graphite are on point, influencing shrill aspects on the back-palate warm and friendly: the minerality polished down into pure steely focus. Light wash over the middle cleanses and purifies–setting all things back to zero where grippy tannin still rules the finish. But the polish–the pure elegance in edgy terms–is what really inspires and confounds. There’s a sizzle on the tongue almost spritzy; almost 7-Up-ish in strength and citrus pale, and nothing gets in the way of the stellar, concentrated fruit. A pinot for TRUE pinot lovers–one the Meomi-crowd will spit with disgust, scoff at the body, and reject for the visceral pepper and biting charm. THIS is true Pinot Noir.

2016 SHOKRIAN ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir Santa Barbara Co. Central Coast 12 point MF 5

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