A little bargain-basement Chard on the table tonight, and it’s shockingly beautiful. Ripe and creamy in the nose, plenty of clear, distilled-down butter and oak to make lovers of the variety swoon, but nothing approaching the levels in most supermarket offerings. The fruit is all spicy melon and strawberry, green stages of wilted floral and herbaceousness fill the bouquet.

At 4, the body has settled down into a remarkably Chablis-like setting on the tongue, the acid still spritely and in perfect balance with the elegance of the body. Gobs of thin apricot, nectarine, rhubarb and blueberry wash over all, the middle un-slutty and meager but still wildly delicious. Bits of focused mineral and Christmas spice offer pointed expression and a bit of tannin juxtaposes the finish. I don’t think you could ask for more in a $20 Chardonnay, but I’m open to suggestions. LONG sold out, but grab some recent stuff for equal aplomb.

2018 NO SPECIAL OCCASION By Dusty Nabor Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara Co. 14.0

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