This is one funky-ass lil bish let me tell you. Wonderful drrrrty poopy grain attached to sublime, ridiculously-ripe blackened berry: all newsprint and India ink and wet, sullen decadence gloriously dark with savory strains of vegetal clogging all pores. A bouquet of lilies left on the table past petal-dropping, soggy natal plum the birds have ignored and mussy strawberry-tree underfoot on the sidewalk. It’s a gobb-stopping melange of nuances you need to experience to appreciate, and it is other-worldly in its expression of pure Syrah. With air, a far-cleaner version of the variety emerges: cool-climate dedication on degrees impossible to argue against.
Over the tongue, more cold-weather expressions surface: the ripeness suggests near-15 concentration while churning out acid and thick, gritty structure to a point where fruit-identity takes a back seat and guesses to proof fall a couple points short of that. It’s a textbook-perfect rendition of plummy, blackberry Syrah, ageless balance shouting YOU ARE DRINKING THIS A DECADE BEFORE PRIME. The charismatic curl of bitterness introduces each intake, the fruit powdery and virile, chalky minerality etching deep chasms of brittle point down each trickle. It’s a bit big for me, but the youthfulness and body contained SCREAM a nearly ageless wine. These are very limited and tiny numbers are produced but highly recommended. I wasn’t able to buy as many of these as I wanted and IF you find them: they will be stupidly stunning in 10 years. I guarantee it.
2017 PRESS GANG CELLARS Syrah Robert William Ranch Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara Co. 14.1
Stephen McConnell 