Copious eucalyptus garners the first-impressions–there’s no over-looking it and while I am a lover of euc, this runs a bit into the extreme. I want it to be a subtle nuance, not something to have to push aside for observance of the rest of the wine. Not sure what sort of percentages we’re talking about here–as the ‘Shiraz’ quotient far out-weighs the subtleties of the Grenache segment. But then: when you’re talking about bush-vine grenache from Mclaren, all Grenache descriptors go out the New World window. I feel like this wine probably pre-dates Chester and while it seems a classic rendition of a South Australia wine, several bottlings of theirs are more-fancied by me.

Thick and grainy in the mouth, the eucalyptus following through onto the tongue with aplomb, spicy pepper and dense oak making proper strides toward a blend both charming and delicious. Can I be vague enough? Yeah… I mean it’s good wine…. just feels elementary. Give me the Laughing Magpie, mate, as this feels user-friendly and almost condescending–eucalyptus aside.

2017 d’ARENBERG ‘d’Arry’s Original’ GR/SY 50/50 Mclaren Vale South Australia 14.5

www.darenberg.com.au/