There aren’t many $10 American wines you can pull from the cellar at this age and be pleasantly surprised. My love of this wines is no secret on these pages, and even at 7, a beautiful, delicious glass showing a touch of brick at the rim and a bit of fading fruit accompanied by slight tertiary but through-and-through solid elegance and structure. NOBODY ages these, and probably never designed by the producer to sit around this long, still feeling rather timeless–a goal all quality, understated wines share–despite price-point.
Rather sullen in nose–not much jumping out at you besides calm solemnity of spirit–rather shocking considering their vibrant juiciness and verve poured young. Buttery structure shrouds fruitiness along the middle: a tangy kiss of acid curling still-vibrant raspberry and blueberry into joyful pleasure. There’s literally nothing you can fault this wine for: cool jam and chalky mineral icing something not *quite* as brash as a youngster, and certainly not something you need to sit and deliberate over the complexeties of, but pleasing on all levels.
2015 J. LOHR ‘Wildflower’ Valdiguie Arroyo Seco Monterey Co. California 12.5
Stephen McConnell 