Extremely young-smelling, a churlish baby-fruit-basket of hi-spice airing out to youthful earth with smudges of sulphite and bottling angst. A blue rim frames distinct purple medium-body where dirty raspberry and pointed rhubarb lives with smoky aplomb. Cool-climate of nose: mountainous and stony, distict worn leather a distillation of fruit, tapenade and all things considered. This would be a rather fun wine to blind on people whose opinions I respect on such things. I beg you to try it–especially if you are slighted against all things Paso.

Tasting it produces a light, rather old-world reflection akin to inexpensive Cotes du Rhone or Gigondas at equally significant (lack of) age. Vegetal ire fills the middle, a bitter green-ness massaging bright berry in delicious ways before a more severe reflection of age obscurrs all with brash tannin. This is GSM like none you’ve tasted from Paso Robles, where concentration is not a consideration or place-mark of viability, but rather awash in tasty light berry, but dense enough to cause pause. Absolutely gorgeous on all counts and I’m adding this producer to my–extremely short–list of recommended wineries in the region.

2021 DETENTE ‘Western Block’ SY/GR/Grac 50/25/25 Colburn Vyd Adelaida Dist Paso Robles 14.0

www.detentewines.com/