A total experiment which is turning out quite well. I’ve never heard of this producer; I’ve never heard of this vineyard; never seen it before; around 30 bucks and rather well put-together. Completely transparent amber-burnished red in the glass, a nose a bit warm and roasty, but calm with ripe, complex fruit and slight vegetal. The oily funk of Pinot translates well into the bouquet, and while nothing grandiose explodes, it plods on with stellar balance and finesse.
Tasting it reminds me of Swan: a watered-down version of RRV’s cherubic mouthfuls relying on thin elegance rather than monumental concentration–as god intended. Sharp ridges of grainy acid and tannin protrude from every corner of the wild berry, causing an almost-briary feel one might think is old-school AV. These are the wines SCM can produce: pithy and dank on one hand; polished and lively on the other. It almost feels like American oak in its peppery layers supported well with cranberry, orange peel and bitter woodsiness. But it’s pure and simple! But not too simple! Such are the vagaries of good Pinot. Bottom line: this thing is built for the long run: the tannin powerful and mouth-rending; the fruit shyly bright and potent; acid and alcohol all within standards. Buy two cases and drink 2 a year.
2019 MIGNANELLI FAMILY WINES Pinot Noir Kent Berry Vyd Santa Cruz Mts. 13.5
Stephen McConnell 