Been a while since I had one of Swilly Idle’s strange bottlings: a convulsively-labeled, fantastically multi-colored, hi-proof concoction which causes much eye-rolling on the outside, but the contents impartial to nay-sayers for the quality contained. Not sure what the variety is… could be a blend, but leaning towards PS–but it doesn’t feel quite chubby enough–although Tannat raises its hand. Typical dark impenetrability, thinning to a sliver of pink-blue at the rim. The nose has a squished-bug tendency with copious glycerin-y obfuscations on ridiculously ripe berry.

Tasting it reveals a crazily-structured drop entering with acid galore and finishing with tannin to spare, but within the book-ends a spicy, tangy delirium of mulberry and shrill blackberry untroubled by youthfullness and controlled by careful vinification. I’ve accuse this producer of being *way out there* with numerous bottles and also applauded for the restraint shown in many others. This one somewhat calls the former to bear in bouquet and the latter on the palate. I have a soft spot for these wines despite their concentration in the face of rusticity and this is a fine example. But ya gotta like GIANT wines.

2021 ZEPPELIN WINERY Tannat Paso Robles 15.6

https://zeppelinwinery.weebly.com/