A ridiculously clean, vibrant version of the variety, which–as usual with Sauvignon Blanc–causes me to ponder the oft-levied question: How much alleged varietal-correctness (we have somewhat erroniously learned to accept) is required in a sauv-blanc before it’s just a “nice, smooth, beautiful, white wine”? This all goes back–of course–to a *gathering* of accepted pyrazine nuances the common descriptor for which I refuse to type in this wineblog. My argument here is of course we DON’T need those affectations in nose and flavor in order to exhibit a great Sauvignon Blanc, despite their almost universal acceptance and pronouncement. This wine has NONE of that, so ‘blind’, would you peg it as SB?
In the nose, no. But in the taste, glorious factors exhibiting pure sauv-blanc data shine to the forefront. A clean, beautiful nose of gracious *white wine* sparkled with slightly dusty stone-fruit delineations, mild musty funk and charming peach and apricot. Keep in mind I am drinking this at barely 60, probably a good 20 degrees warmer than most will judge it at. Lovely aspects of alcohol and applesauce meld together in pure fashion.
On the palate, it shines through as textbook Bordeaux Blanc. Or Sancerre: two versions of this wine seemingly forgotten in the US’s thirst for Sauvignon Blanc. NOWHERE do obtuse pyrazines announce themselves, but tasting it solidifies the variety. Wonderful and full-bodied, beautiful nutty portions positioning themselves against spritely acid and spice, the fruit a flowery explosion of plum and pear tinged with savory herb. One of the best versions crossing my desk recently, absolutely stunning on all fronts. Patient palates will appreciate this wine for its old-world clarity and modern finesse in a world where this variety moves to #1 in sales of white wine and I wish more reflected this profile. It is stupidly beautiful.
2022 CALIMIST Sauvignon Blanc Mendocino Co. 12.5
Stephen McConnell 