Via the SCM comes this beautiful Lodi Zin from a winery I don’t *think* was pre-prohibition, but definitely pre-war. And the throwback label is extra justice. But the real throwback for drinkers is the “13-9” on the label. Those days have long flown, and one of tthe main reasons I–and many others–drink so little Zin these days. 10YO and barely hitting stride, this bottle offers potential to rival some of the classic offerings of 30 years ago. I feel maybe the tannin isn’t present in required quantities, but the acid and balance all point north. Nowhere does chub and flatulent ripeness show itself, though the tasting profile is ALL ZIN. And, it’s not expensive.

Bricking considerably, it offers clean, easy blackberry and jam early on in the nose, but tempered with restraint the Italians built into these things through the 70’s, 80’s, and early 90’s. Dirty with earth and easy on the sweet-tooth, it lacks significant tertiary–despite the ruddy amber.

Mouth-filling and round, it manages a spicy background under exuberant but thin concentration no one seems to appreciate these days from the variety. Bigger-is-better-bro and zin-bitch will be disappointed in its un-sluttyness, but we’re not here for them. They read other blogs. A streak of vegetal courses the palate through-middle, sullying the plush vibrance of the variety. These are all good things. It settles down into bitter strife near the finish, the appealing jamminess inherent offering counter-point to included structure. A delicious wine of supreme quality.

2013 BARGETTO ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel Lodi California 13.9

https://bargetto.com/