SMV has such a distinctive set of nuances. This one is no different, although I’m feeling this is my first Rancho Ontiveros. I am familiar with the location and name and–like any reputed Pinot Noir vineyard–its nearly incestuous plethora of makers and bottlers. I have also had this label before, and I do not remember being wowed beyond something clearly average–a C or B. This wine is different. And while age certainly plays a part in the glass in front of me, I taste things which tell me this wine is–in large part–untouched by almost a decade. Thin-clear and garnet: That part is aged. Haricots verts and briar in the nose–along with considerable alcohol (something which caused me to peg this at nearly 15-o) but sweet rich oak and polish of age. It really is quite an remarkable nose. And then that SMV-stuff sets in.. So distinctive. That perfect balance of bell pepper and barnyard and crisp acidity. So in love with SMV. Such a distinctive taste. Yes, there is a touch of age on this one but none of the sulpher/matchstick/burnt-almond sorta thing when PN has turned the corner. Still vibrant and lively. Gentle acidity transforms into serious tannin in the finish still at this date. Such a lovely wine. Like most of my SMV vineyard-designate bottles: From Old Town Market in Orcutt. And not expensive. 14-3. ♦♦