A Thinking-Man’s Paso Cab

Medium clear ruby out to garnet edges.  Non-staining.  Bell pepper in the nose, with gobs of celery-stalk, eucalyptus and a fair shot of rubbing alcohol and deep oak.  Fairly ripe, but at the same time so intensely vegetal I find myself trying to enjoy it.  Decanted heavily.  It really doesn’t change, if anything an understandable fade/growth to richer and riper and slightly pruney and more alcoholic while the vegetal goes slightly into rich oak and brier while the CF and PV pop some pepper.  An omnipresent over-coating of shellac-brier masking the fruit.

In the mouth, instant gravel and dust, while acid bites alongside.  Fruit is extremely present, but thin of nuance and fat of body.  This is partially due to the earthen and wet-bark tannins kicking in under the acid alongside the initial fruit so instantly they become inseparable.

This is interesting wine.  Anybody weaned on Paso cabs or Syrahs is going to flinch at this one.  The nose is definitely not what the Central Coast has engineered into nearly all the wines you smell.  It is thinner and meager-er. The taste, middle, and finish are so much more reflective of a Calistoga, Diamond, or Spring.  Something up there in the NW Valley.  Maybe even over the hill OVER the no-no side of the county line.  But not Paso.  Can’t be.  Is this at Cabs Of Distinction?!!?  Of course not.  Opolo and Le Cuvier are–wines to clean your garbage disposal with.  But not something truly interesting and classic like this.  It doesn’t *fit*.  It’s weird.  It is the most BDX wine I have ever tasted in Paso.  Of course, it still retains the ripeness which we somehow can not part with if we intend to make ANY money in this corridor.  But I get it.  This is a wine you have to think about.  I know my followers can deal with that.  This is not the first wine from this producer I have gushed about. The entire line can be purchased at Tastes of the Valleys.

2009 RANGELAND The Watershed Cabernet Sauvignon Meritage 14.2


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