Thin transparent ruby at core with garnet FREEWAYS all around.  Pungent petrol, briar and tar, alcohol burn straight outa the glass.  With a little air, mild tart cherry fills the nose but still that Anderson Valley Pinot-ness never goes away.  In the mouth, smoky and shockingly bright acid does its best to shroud the core of thin fruit.  Why are real Anderson Valley Pinot’s such studies in extremes?  This one blows you in several directions but none of them un-enjoyable and through it all a solid, unwavering pillar of absolute undeniable PINOT NOIR.  All the way out to the still-tannic finish.  This is not a brooding wine or a fleshy wine or a plush, ripe wine.  This is a meager, exotic wine.  I might even opt for a tad more fruit and a little less alcohol, but there is no denying it as a conversation-piece.  13-5   ♦

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