Best Cab I’ve had This Year

Black impenetrable ruby with thin clear edges.  Amazing bouquet of dense, dark cab fruit layered with briar and spice and oak and a definite Chanel/Gucci perfume note impossible to refute.  I looked around–there were no diners nearby;  It was not my girlfriend;  It was not me;  It was not the waitress;  Nowhere was this perfume evident except IN the glass.  It is the wine.  The mountain fruit in this thing has a polish far beyond its 5 years and yet throws infantile snowballs at the palate, convincing of decades to come.  The wine has perfected extreme subtlety.  Burgess was one of my first loves in Napa, first with Zinfandel and then Cab–drinking mid-80’s stuff in the early 90’s.  It is pretty much impossible to find anywhere south of SF and therefore somewhat fell off my radar for the past decade–out of sight/out of mind sorta thing.  This trip to Nocal has levied a one-two Burgess-punch at me:  First finding 08’s in a grocery yesterday and then this 09 on a resty list today (the oldest wine on the list–and nowhere near the most expensive, FYI).  In the mouth, creamy fruit and briar translate almost seamlessly into voluptuous mouth feel–but again, reservations abound.  This is NOT your 125$ luxo-Napa bottling.  Nothing even CLOSE.  This has acid and edgy structure to offset the killer fruit, none of the massive oak which makes you want to drive splinters into your eyes, and while the 14-4 causes me teensy pruney cautions, everything is balanced and cab-driven to perfection.  What a fabulous bottle of cab.  ♦♦

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