Lovely dark ruby with clear edges.  Crazy dirty-baby-diaper morphs gently into a fat whallop of tob acco and wet gravel.  With a little air, really a quite compelling bouquet–packed with nutty cassis and briar–but oh so fat.  Quite obese.  I love The Delta and Contra Costa County and even West Sac to a  certain extent and this bottle was just nectar at 12-13 bucks.  It really deserves air.  Initially I had it pegged for considerably wider-of-girth than it breathes out to be.  Trust me, it is still warm, ripe, and round, but the briar and spice which develop alongside are worth the wait.  Reminds me of Happy Canyon.  And some SCM.  Nice euc and mint.  In the mouth the tobacco just goes into steroid-mode.  Leather and tobacco with an instantaneous sharp spike of acid which makes the over-ripe fruit almost take a back seat.  Is there fruit?  Yes, but it is a grainy, black-cherry sort with port characteristics.  The nose carries everything with into the taste and save for a tad of PMBS issue it really is quite well-constructed.  A bit heavy in the amaretto/maraschino category, but you can do far worse for the P-P.  Tannin is of a considerably un-sophisticated sort, with the thinnish acid running rampant.  This wine has a lot of hang-ups which are easy to ignore if you don’t get too hung up on them.  13-5   ♦♦

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