Poor Man’s Grange Strikes Again

Dark ruby, nearly impenetrable with basically no edge.  Big round rooty, baked goods bouquet, frosting and rather uninspiring, dark one-dimensional fruit.  Decanted hard and no change.  It smells good, don’t get me wrong–it just isn’t anything even remotely interesting.  Safe and thick and–dare I say–California-ish.  My how we’ve come full circle.  And–with Kalimna–I have an additional problem.  I have a deep vertical and NEVER drink young 28.  I am positive this is the youngest 28 I have had in over a decade.  Not that it would necessarily affect my interpretation of a young SY, it’s just… I have built-in parameters of what a Bin 28 tastes like and now am confronted with an infantile version and naturally, the looming question would be: Is this what they always taste like young?  Clean and spry, late breathing gives bright apple bundled in oak.  In the mouth, fruit disgustingly thick, clamoring for attention while almost choking you with density.  Brilliant acidity and wracking tannin jostle with walnut-skin wet-leather and a candied sorta Borkum-riff eventually giving in to the tannin.  But in classic Kalimna fashion:  It never quite does.  Difficult for me to drink at this juncture–but entirely enjoyable–it will be another in a long line of stunners in a decade.
♦♦
2012 PENFOLD’S Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz South Australia  14-5

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