Stony Cush

Dark impenetrable ruby, right out to tiny bricking edges.  Considerable sed.  A heady blast of unforgiving tar, briar, leather and earth–a touch hot, but garnished with garam-masala, onion, and bright wet asphalt–hits you in the face, clogging your pores with it’s density and curling your nose-hairs.  This is far-and-away a testosteRhone with a spiked-arm fist, unrelenting in its concentration but with velvet funk, maintaining incredible focus on fruit and complexity.  Detractors of this blog will quickly notice the double-standard, and there are only a handful of wines I praise with this sort of syrupy decadence and reduction.  Well, this is one of them and it’s my blog, so caveat emptor.  In the mouth, a dry crawl through viscous corridors of peach and uber-ripe nectarine–stemmy and thick–make this a pancake-syrup experience sprinkled with all notions of Asian spice and briar, razor-sharp acidity bringing up teeth-wiping tannins desperately attempting to wipe out all memories of fruit–and fortunately failing horribly at that goal.  This is not Paso, this is not Ballard Canyon.  This is not flabby oxidized fruit off-balance and muddy.  This is Laetitia foothills: fog-drenched, cold-climate goodness, and representing the kind of balance-in-the-face-of-Aunt Jemima one typically only sees in the Southern sections of Edna Valley (those in the front row will know we are talking about Alban and Slide Hill/Sawyers).  It’s not for everyone, and lord knows it typically is not for me.  But this one works.
2008 McPRICE-MEYERS Syrah ‘Les Galets’ Arroyo Grande Valley San Luis Obispo Co  16-2

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