Not Howell Mountain

Bright garnet right out to thin clear edges and some young sed.  Effusive perfumed nose, heady and strong–inundating, even–rises effortlessly out, cringingly nose-filling–packed with mint and euc, green but round.  Crushed wet gravel beauty surrounds an elegant oak lollipop.  Lilies left on the dining-room table for a day too long, dog hair and hot dust and vanilla pudding–so nuanced, so intriguing, and yet over-all a lush inviting depth of ripeness and fruit.  One of those wineries which I had jotted notes down about–all stuff I’d read–on my *visit* list and the other day I had a few minutes to kill in the neighborhood and popped in.  I am so glad I did.  Late-breathing brings out a touch of heat and Sharpie from the depths of ripeness and mint but it is hardly something to fault this lovely bottle on.  I pegged it a full point lower on AL than label states–it’s THAT balanced.  CF/ME/SY and no indication on label of proportions.  It covers the palate in more brilliant mint, showing acidity on point–at first giving the impression of meager fruit.  But *thin* this wine is NOT.  A casual search shows fruit popping up everywhere–rich and candied but never cloying.  Everywhere you look, there is either bright or brooding fruit.  Lovely oak throughout (Eastern European?) and a finish of healthy tannins polished in a way only CF and ME could dream up.
2011 POWELL MOUNTAIN CELLARS ‘Summit’ Proprietary Red Wine Paso Robles  15-3

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