High Plateau in a Low Land

Bright staining ruby with considerable sediment.  Overt petrichor and aged beef over a spicy banana peel and obvious alcohol.  Blackberry preserves lie on a sarsaparilla base.  Viognier has in no way “thinned this out” or “watered it down”.

Gritty and grainy from the first sniff, it doesn’t take a break into the mouth, pulling sharp acidity and grating minerality hard in all directions, barely letting the considerable fruit up for air.  Edgy cinnamon-wet-leather tinge everything while muscular tannins obliterate all.

An impressive bargain effort and while far from one-dimensional, it lacks sophistication: playing–as much of Paso does–on muscular braggadocio rather than basic complexities more evolved appellations find effortless.

2011 ALTA COLINA ‘Baja Colina’ GSM/VG 58/21/19/2  15.0


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