Intense purple but clear and bright with almost no edge. Warm nutty decadence with edgy minerality, spice, elegant and crisp, effusively rich, bright fresh berry fruit exploding in all directions coupled with dank cellar Old World structure. Waves of earthy notes flow off a singular fruit focus defying description.
So interesting to compare this 2012 with the 2011 which–for lesser producers–would typically show itself as fatter and riper against what would be expected to be a thinner, lean & mean product. Here, we have no such Napa tendencies, as perseverance to perfect Cabernet fruit takes the main stage, defying shallow vintage stereotypes. Here is where a classic producer maintains an almost perfect cab nuance despite bull-headed opinions of vintage. Remember: the WORST vintage in Napa is STILL better than the best vintage in Bordeaux.
In the mouth, sharp acid eats your tongue at a level which negates what would be assumed to exist in a recent foray into this winery’s 2011 offering. Rich chocolate frosting, date-like and rife with Chinese 5-spice. Like classic producers, very little vintage variation exists, instead a solid wine exists with cellar-correctness and focus. Dense and concentrated, the ripe-berry fruit maintains throughout the juxtapositions with stunning acid and slow-creeping tannin–which over-powers and closes. Easily my new favorite Napa Valley boutique and something any serious drinker or collector should buy CASES of.
2012 WHITE ROCK Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 14.8
Stephen McConnell 