Francly, My Dear

IMG_20160905_203412Gorgeous clear dark ruby out to minuscule pink edges. Buttery burnt rubber black walnut cake frosting runs a fierce gauntlet between chalky vanilla and peppery cellar floor. Nearly every time I review a Cab Franc, somebody asks if it is Bordeaux- or Loire-styled and I’m not sure my opinion would differ much WHICHEVER shape bottle it came in, as it courses a path quite overlapping of both soft-shouldered and tailored bottles. It’s just flat out GOOD wine: nuanced and round while edgily light and alive and vibrant, never getting ‘bogged down’.
Brander was one of the first wineries I discovered and fell in love with when I moved to the Central Coast 15 years ago. What impressed me the most then–and even more so today–is how they weren’t beating to the same drum most the other area wineries were/are. First of all the focus was heavy on Bordeaux varieties (not to mention being the California GOD of Sauvignon Blanc), and most importantly, the wines were tight and focused–*lean* even–never playing the cheap easy over-ripe card for near-term bling.
In the mouth, meaty and firm, with an ethereal delicateness–a thinness, even–mid-palate which keeps everything grounded and intelligent while not sacrificing lively young fruit. Tight as a drum, green bitter herb overwhelming the tannic finish. An absolutely STUNNING wine start-to-finish.
2012 THE BRANDER VINEYARD Cabernet Franc Santa Ynez Valley Santa Barbara Co 13.8
http://www.brander.com

One thought on “Francly, My Dear

Leave a Reply

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.