As soon as I saw DOCTOR, I knew you were serious about Riesling. Big motor oil and beach tar in an otherwise fairly austere nose. Tiny little notes of fig and blueberry–alongside a bit of wilted lettuce–but you have to strain at them. Then it hits your mouth and the heavens open. After the frailness of the nose, the first blast over your tongue is sputteringly shocking. Beautiful sweet ZING. White peaches–ridiculously ripe–pineapple core, Mexican 7-Up and a bitter cat’s tongue knocking everything down in the finish. Anyone who reads me regularly know my fondness for Gewurztraminer–almost always at the expense of THIS variety. Probably why I like this one so much. Fans of the extremely cloaked, vapid versions of Riesling–which also seem to get the high marks, and make me shake my head–will probably be put off by the almost bubble-gummy forwardness it presents. But this appeals to me. I love this wine.
2014 DR. KLAPPER ‘Spatlese Halbitrocken’ Riesling Santa Barbara County 9.5
Stephen McConnell 