Smoky garnet ripeness running rubber band and a crushed-bug glycerine into piquant cinnamon and star anise. Chalky mineral in the mouth, after some of the cleanest old-world fruit in memory thrusts and gyrates in your face. The tannic bitterness of a thousand lost souls burned for ever and ever in volcanic pits beaten by ocean winds give a savory finish to a wine that I am quite liking, despite my early apprehension. Sicily baby.

2013 CANTINA BOCCANTINO ‘Rosso’ Riserva DOC Sicilia Italy 13.5

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