Intense color, black and staining out to narrow ruby edges. Big vegetal not-so-pleasant nose, garish and abrasive, but with a fat band of hot ripe fruit obvious, tethered to a liqueur thick, sharp and alcoholic.

This is an odd one to place. It should come as no surprise I have never had Cabernet from British Columbia before, so comparisons HAVE to be made. Calaveras County? Temecula? Paso Robles? All of these regions have one thing in common: hot weather. I was somewhat hoping–OK, pre-determining is more accurate–this would be more weingut-like, or Mendocino, but no. The last two Okanagan’s I had, a Pinot Noir and the Gamay cellar-mate of this wine, were enjoyable and varietally correct, this one though… is a style of cab I do not prefer.

In the mouth, this thing pulls out every single acid and tannin stop it can find, clashing horribly with the distinct ripeness in the background. Stemmy bitter burn–mouth-abrading and dry–coats all surfaces while the jammy middle stupidly smiles at you.

This wine is awkward in so many places. I can’t wait to re-visit it in a few years.

2015 DESERT HILLS WINERY Cabernet Sauvignon Okanagan Valley BC Canada 13.5

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