Bright canary with just the slightest imagination of haze. Grassy peat jumps out of this one, headed into Sauv-Blanc territory cautiously but stopping far short of full-blown varietal confusion. Although first breathe, blind… I don’t know… I might have gone the SB route. With a little air, a far creamier nuance emerges, edged with greenbriar, chopped greens and nutty, toasted dessert. Crisp and sharp in the nose, a nice volatility calves off acidity, but it never quite blossoms the floral and tropical fruit I associate with this variety. We are now slightly above 60°, and I keep searching for it–is it lurking back there? It certainly is shy.
Anyone who reads me half-regularly knows I am an unabashed Gewürztraminer fan. Gruner and Riesling rarely wow me, and I search out Gewurtz wherever I can find it. Anderson Valley–obviously–houses most of my favorites, with random pockets of interest scattered through the Central Coast. Here we have an entrant from a perennial favorite of mine for white wine: Clarksburg! It definitely is a unique style.
In the mouth, a density and body far beyond what I am used to with Gewürztraminer. Unctuous and fleshy, it rotates gobs of chewy mineral, acid and even tannin into the palate. In the finish–as the blockbuster tirades settle–a hint of the tropical and ripe floral, alongside a walnut-skin structure. As you inhale over your last swallow, you finally feel the breath of the variety.
This is a big monster of a Gewurtz, and my recommendation would be: if you are a huge RIESLING fan, and never quite saw the appeal of Gewurtz, get ahold of this wine. You will LOVE it.
2017 SILT WINE Gewürztraminer Wilson Vineyard Clarksburg California 13.1