Rosy transparent garnet, not filtered and orange-edged. Plummy plummy and a bit pruny on initial nose, a dark, zinfandel-ish bouquet dominating all and quelling anything bright and fresh. I’m going to put a speck of a chill on it. Just a hair. I typically like my Counoise below 60. It doesn’t change much. Tell ya what: I’m just not going to put much weight on the nose on this one and go straight for the taste.

In the mouth, simple clear bright wonderfulness. Weedy, raspy, slightly turned baked grass all crammed up in ridiculous minerality and everywhere sweet fruit. But not forward. Not even the slightest. Elegant and restrained, reducing itself to a burn and edge in the finish NO WAY applicable to alcohol. This thing *might be* 13-2 tops. Peach nectar and thawed strawberries in those square tins and an earthy mold touch to it. I get the moldy nuance early and late on the palate, although it is quite delicate and breathes off with considerable air (over an hour). I realize how dangerous it is to use such a word, but people afraid of frank descriptors have been warned many times to NOT read my reviews (especially with Pinot). It doesn’t detract from the wine or even suggest flaw–it’s just a nuance dwaddling on the side, creating intrigue. Beautiful, black fuzzy mold, alive and vibrant, playing against the maraschino and cast iron.

Fun, fun wine. We need more Counoise on the shelf!

2016 THE WITHERS WINERY Counoise El Dorado County California 12.9

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